Visiting the Magical Realm of the famous storyteller's Homeland in Scandinavia

In the mirror, I can see myself in huge golden pantaloons, seen only to me. Kids play in a stone basin pretending to be ocean creatures, while adjacent resides a chatting legume in a exhibition box, beside a imposing pile of mattresses. It represents the universe of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), among the nineteenth-century's most beloved storytellers. I'm visiting the city of Odense, situated in the island of Fyn in the southern part of this Nordic country, to explore Andersen’s timeless impact in his home town a century and a half after his demise, and to discover a few enchanted tales of my own.

The Exhibition: H.C. Andersen's House

HC Andersens Hus is the town's cultural center honoring the writer, incorporating his childhood house. A curator explains that in past designs of the museum there was little focus on the author's tales. The writer’s life was examined, but Thumbelina were missing. For tourists who come to Odense looking for narrative enchantment, it was not quite enough.

The redevelopment of Odense city centre, redirecting a main thoroughfare, provided the opportunity to reimagine how the city’s most famous son could be honored. An international design contest awarded Japanese firm the Kengo Kuma team the commission, with the curators’ new approach at the center of the structure. The distinctive timber-clad museum with interlinked curving spaces debuted to great fanfare in 2021. “We’ve tried to create a space where we don’t talk about the writer, but we speak in the manner of the storyteller: with humour, sarcasm and outlook,” notes the expert. Even the gardens follow this philosophy: “The outdoor area for wanderers and for giants, it's planned to create a feeling of diminutiveness,” he says, a challenge accomplished by thoughtful gardening, playing with elevation, proportion and multiple meandering routes in a unexpectedly limited space.

The Writer's Legacy

He authored two and a half memoirs and regularly provided conflicting accounts. The exhibition takes this approach fully; often the opinions of his companions or excerpts of correspondence are displayed to politely doubt the his narrative of incidents. “The writer is the storyteller, but he's untrustworthy,” notes the expert. The outcome is a compelling swift exploration of the author's biography and art, mental approaches and most popular stories. This is stimulating and playful, for grown-ups and children, with a bonus lower-level fantasy realm, the fictional village, for the children.

Visiting the Town

Returning to the physical town, the compact town of this Danish city is picturesque, with historic pathways and traditional Danish homes colored in vibrant hues. The author's presence is all around: the street signals show the author with his signature top hat, bronze footmarks give a free pedestrian route, and there’s a art walk too. Each summer this commitment culminates with the regular HC Andersen festival, which marks the his influence through visual arts, performance, stage shows and musical performances.

During my visit, the week-long celebration had numerous performances, many were free. As I explore this place, I meet painted stilt-walkers, ghoulish monsters and an author double telling stories. I listen to feminist spoken-word pieces and observe an incredible evening show with acrobatic dancers lowering from the municipal structure and suspended from a construction equipment. Still to come in the coming months are talks, family art workshops and, broadening the narrative tradition past the author, the city’s regular wonder event.

Every excellent fairytale destinations need a castle, and Fyn features 123 castles and stately homes across the island

Cycling and Exploration

As in much of the country, bicycles are the best way to get about in this town and a “bike path” curves through the downtown area. From Hotel Odeon, I cycle to the free harbour-side swimming pool, then into the countryside for a route around Stige Ø, a tiny landmass linked by a road to the primary land. Town dwellers relax with food here following their day, or take pleasure in a peaceful time angling, water sports or bathing.

Back in town, I eat at Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the food selection is based on author-inspired concepts and stories. The poem the patriotic piece is highlighted when I visit, and proprietor the host reads extracts, translated into English, as he introduces the meal. This is a practice repeated often in my days in the city, the local residents enjoy storytelling and it seems that sharing tales is always offered here.

Castle Explorations

Every excellent magical places require a palace, and the island boasts over a hundred manors and stately homes around the area. Going on excursions from town, I explore Egeskov Castle, the continent's finely maintained moated palace. Although large sections are available for tours, the castle is also the private residence of the aristocratic owners and his partner, the royal resident. I ponder if she can feel a tiny vegetable through a pile of {mattresses