All Chef Ought to Learn At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Ranks Fourth on List of London’s Leading Restaurants.

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.